Description
This is an enjoyable route that is well protected by the Needles standards. There are still a handful of runouts on easier rock.
Scramble up to gully and pull on to the rock from a large chockstone. Angle up to the right and clip a fixed pin, which can be backed up with a large brass nut. Climb the face to the left until you can join the arete and a nut placement (#10 HB). Make a 5.10a move on the arete, even though the bolt tempts you to the right. After the bolt, angle left to the arete and place a flared #1 camalot which can be backup up with a small ball nut. Clip the final bolt (crux) and angle right on easier rock to a 2 bolt anchor.
Location
Start the route on top of the huge chockstone...
Protection
One set of Aliens (blue through red), nuts, #1 camalot, and optional ball nuts
Bring lots of long slings to reduce drag.