Description
The route of first ascent in 1904.
Hike over Piute Pass and camp in Humphreys Basin, which is a high tundra like plateau west of the mountain.
Permits can be found
here
Looking from Humphreys Basin there's a deep notch right of the main mass of the peak. A first right, then left slanting couloir heads up to it. Take this for a while until you can head left and into the south couloir, pass chockstones on the left at Class 4 until you reach a notch in the crest of the ridge (East Arete). This notch is known as "Married Men's Point" but I would advise you to keep going, even if you are married. The crux of the climb is next, a steep class 5 face for about 50 feet.
After this the wonderful summit is a short scramble away.
Descent
I recommend descending
SW Slope and NW Face
.
Location
The south couloir to the right of the summit as seen from Humphreys basin.
Protection
Solo or rope and light rack.