Shriek of the Mutilated

This awesome roof problem on Lower Castle Rock provides exciting moves and great exposure. Solid gear and a tricky lip sequence highlight this neglected classic.

5.10ish climbing leads up the slabs directly below the roof with spaced but good gear. Clip the manky pin and move into a awkward stance below the first roof. Fire in some gear and giv'er. The second roof is more easily climbed to a good ledge and a traditional anchor.

SUPER dirty climbing continues up to Loggers Ledge/Upper Castle.

Starts to the right of Brass Balls on Lower Castle Rock. From near the base of Brass Balls scramble rightward to a good gear belay on the slab, directly in line with the roof cracks above.

1-2 sets of cams from green alien to #2. Save a #1 and #2 for above the crux. The manky fixed pin can be backed up by a yellow alien.