The Enemy Within

This route ascends the conspicuous, narrow chimney between

The Art of War

and

Thus Us

. The rock is solid and good quality. Crux is in the last 20 feet of the chimney where it tapers from narrow to squeeze. Two bolts protect this final stretch. A big throw with the right arm and a virtual pullup get you out of the squeeze and up to a good stance at a two-bolt anchor with rings. You may have broken a sweat by then.

Tape up and wear appropriate clothing to protect your knees and elbows. Bolts and ring anchor were installed on 2 July 2007. Route was previously toproped. ENEMY is now a solid and reasonable lead...not a sport climb.

Find this route on the NE Face of Avalon between

The Art of War

and

Thus Us

. Start along the left side of a huge block that has fallen about 3 feet and stopped.

Thus Us

begins along the right side of the same block.

Bring gear from a green Alien to a #2 Camalot. 2 bolts protect the last 20 feet of the chimney. 2-bolt anchor with rings at the top. This anchor has a good stance and can also be used for

Thus Us

.