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Peak Mountain 3
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The Happy Gnome

FA Rick Meleski, Doug Bridgers, 74
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

If swinging leads, let your partner lead the first pitch, all the even numbered pitches are awesome!

P1: (5.7) Scrambling and easy dihedral climbing to a bolted anchor.

P2: (5.8+) Continue up, then a long traverse left. Climb the slightly runout face to an alcove belay.

P3: (5.7) Traverse up and right past a small tree to a hanging belay adjacent to the pitch 4 traverse. Hard route finding here.

A (5.9) variation to pitch 4 requires a slightly lower belay, the variation starts with a traverse left under a small roof, then continue up along a finger crack to join the standard pitch 4 at the crux roof.

P4: (5.8+) Make an improbable traverse to the left (small cams in horizontals), then pull a small roof (crux) to belay at a tree.

P5: (5.7) Climb up to an enormous ledge (lunch ledge).

P6: (5.8) Walk to end of lunch ledge (climbers right), follow corner systems on the ridge to the top. You will pass an old ring piton and a bolt. Good exposure on this pitch.

Protection

Standard rack: doubles Camalots (0.4-1), singles 2-3.


Routes in Yataghan