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Peak Mountain 3
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CMC Route

FA perhaps some CMCer
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Description

This is an short old route on the left side of the second buttress of Mt Thorodin. It is an eye-catching natural line that appears to have smaller features than it does. It is the obvious early line for the crag. This follows a crack/chimney system that appears plumb to the top. Hike about 1 hour from Panorma Point dropping into the drainage and then angling cross-country to the crag.

Addendum: the start can be a bit challenging to determine.

Perhaps it merits 1.5 stars?

P1. Follow a right-angling crack/dihedral briefly until you are in the line of the crack/chimney system firing straight to the top. Belay at a tree.

P2. Continue up the right-facing crack/dihedral/chimney system as it widens out. Stem, wedge, jam, squirm out over an improbable-for-5.7 looking bulge, and gain a small ledge that used to have an angle for an anchor. Use big gear for an anchor.

P3. Continue up the crack/dihedral to the top with easier terrain.

Walk off left and back the the base.

Note, a pack on the back may prove challenging to climb with.

Protection

A standard rack (nuts, a few larger hexes, single set of cams), and a 60m rope is nice.