Bubo

Get to the North Face of Bubo Tower from Balanced Rock as described on the "Rock Page." There is one feature on this face... a yawning chimney that splits it.

Climb up a soft slab for perhaps 10-20 feet, I don't recall exactly how high... and enter the chimney.

I slowly picked my way up this, first more or less squeezing, then with my back on one side and feet on the other, then finally in a near-splits, which was slow-going. Much to my surprise, my partner followed at great speed as he got to the top- with hands on one side and feet on the other- walking up that way. Of course, placing gear like this would be no fun.

The route was originally 3 pitches. Given the little amount of gear and shortness of the climb, doing it in a single pitch as we did seemed much better.

Rap from anchors on the top via 2 ropes (50M will do). A single 70M might get you down. The condition of the webbing on the anchors up top is unknown. It was total crap when I did the climb and I replaced them, but that has been 7 years of desert sun and wind atop a tower.

As always when doing towers, take some new red/brown webbing just in case.

Not much for pro. You can get a few large cams here and there, and a few smaller pieces in cracks in the side walls. The best plan is to take a light rack + a few big pieces and plan on running it out a little.