Description
This route is phenomenal. Long, with multiple cruxes. It doesn't get more stars because it breaks out into three sections with no-hand rests in between. The lower part is steep, with long moves on crimpers and underclings. The main crux is here right above a small roof. Then a little run out takes you to the first ledge rest, followed by a technical section reminiscent of traditional granite climbing (no worries no cams are necessary) and you get to the second ledge rest. Now you better have your big guns ready for a final long section of steep climbing over ledges and slopers. The pumpy headwall guards the anchors, very high off the deck, as a cherry on top of your sundae... you gotta earn that cherry.
A 70 meter rope is just barely enough to lower from the anchors. Please be careful.
Location
At the very entrance of the Gap, starts on obvious pockets under a big flake.
Protection
15 Bolts + anchors