Description
Blaster, my suggested name that awaits Alan's finding the muse, starts from the first belay around the corner from
AKT
and just past the traverse bolt. This route is a little stiff getting started (5.10d) and pulls up past some vegetation. Stand up for a couple of clips before tackling the left leaning crack/seam that fires through the white stone right of the big roof. From a stance half way through the crack, a powerful and awkward sequence gains a pair of upside-down layaways near the end of the crack. This felt like solid 5.12c even on a top-rope. It is very hard to get back on this line if you pop chasing it, so the lead is probably more rationale. However, the exit move out of crack/seam comprises back to back 5.12b moves and is very committing, so pick your poison. Enter a balancy, tight corner and enjoy a few moderate moves before launching the exit sprawl over a shallow, flat roof. This is a surprisingly good line up an obvious feature that has been calling for someone to climb it, surprising only because it went untouched until 2001. Burly, very burly.
Protection
QD and a 60m rope.
Routes in River Wall
- 22Slacker5.12c/dSport