Coleman's Complex

This awesome pitch is located in the gorgeous inset, left of

Inside Straight

and right of

Virgin Spring

. It's a brilliant, thin splitter that passes an overhang and the route continues up to the Library Ledge anchors (

Melvin's

). Bernard Gillett's book gives this pitch an "R" rating, which may be fitting, all the gear is small, the rock not so-travelled, and the crack a little weedy. But after watching J-dog piss on it, it looked pretty well protected. Nontheless, this pitch is a spectacular, spicy, exercise in slabbing,thin crack and rp-ing. Three stars may be a bit generous but it's sooo good and with traffic will clean up quickly. Enjoy!

Lots of small stuff. RPs and TCUs, [bring a full rack for up top].

Addendum:

tricams may be useful.