Get it on Google Play
Peak Mountain 3
Edit Map

Face Lift

FA Rick Mosher and Joe Roland, 1975
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route begins at the obvious flake between Applied Magnetics and the descent gully. Climb the flake to a bolt (alternately, you can climb the 5.10a face left of the flake past a Leeper hanger). Easy friction leads to a second bolt. From this second bolt, the route continues straight up to a third bolt near the "Too Mucking Futch" trough. A traverse and a very long sling is required to gain the fourth bolt. I prefer to forego the third bolt in favor of keeping a more direct and aesthetic line to the fourth bolt. This makes it a little more runout, so use your judgment. From the fourth bolt, diagonal up and right to a triple bolt belay in a dish.

After the belay, head up and left to the gully (passing 2 bolts), or up and right to a hole and a second bolt, eventually passing two more bolts on the final headwall (my book calls this variation 5.9, but I believe it is 5.10a).

From the first belay one can also angle right to a large hole to climb "Scrub Job" or "Chavez/Mosher."

Protection

Marginal pro can be found on the route just before the first belay. Gear placements and a large oak tree can be found for an anchor at the top of the second pitch