Boiler Plate Route

Variation to pitch one and pitch two exist. Very old slings were found on our ascent of the lower half of the cliff. Ted Hammond led it all. I followed him in 1984? 1. Easy buttress to traverse left to the long right facing corner. 2. Up corner (5-8+) to its end to semi hanging belay. 3. Move right to shallow arches and up to long belay ledge. Sure 2-3 can be 1 pitch. 4. Ted went left and I went right after cleaning gear (5.10). Couldn't do the left way. 5. Belayed under the giant deteriorating ceiling arch climb the right end through the giant notch (5-7 short pitch and belay left on 2 bolts (semi hanging belay). 6. Climb the aid bolt ladder (5-10) to move left traversing passed a couple more bolts and trad gear (5-10+ friction). Ledges are reached belay below right diagonal arch a rope length pitch. 7. Follow arch (5-7) until it ends at another arch. 8. Follow another arch until it ends (5-7). 9. Last short pitch to top. Our short pitches can be combined to long ones.

Below the highest and widest ceiling arch is a small buttress which is the start to this climb. After the easy buttress move left to gain the right facing inside corner.

Trad gear and 1/4" bolts. These bolts have got to be deteriorated. No rappel anchors.