Description
This long forgotten about variation climbs up the difficult looking seam just left of
Ken T’ank’s
upper section.
Start by climbing the first crimp crux of
Ken T’ank
, to the massive jug rest, (although the first ascensionist did not use the leg wrap out far right). From the rest, move left to a jug flake with foot smears, then move into an upside down slot, and make a hard clip. The rest of the crux is very beta intensive, and there are several ways to do it (hint: right toe hook for last move). This has four star rock, has four star movement, and in my opinion, is a four star line. Don’t be put off by its close position to
Ken T’ank
, you have to be very tall and strong to move back into that rock climb once you are in the crux. It felt 5.14- for me, but with different beta and climbing style, it could feel harder or easier. Still, it’s a great climb, and I hope it receives the attention it deserves.
Location
Start on
Ken T’ank
, then at the big jug rest, move to the left bolt line, and clip the left three bolts before moving back to
Ken T’ank
at the last bolt.
Protection
9 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.
Routes in The Armory
- 7Knight Walker5.13dSport