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Peak Mountain 3
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Keyhole Flake

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Description

There are some awkward sections, particularly prior to the transition from fingers to hands, but plenty of holds lower where they're useful, and a few places for feet stemming (it goes both as a lieback and a jam higher). Good anchors, 70' (I'm a wimp, used 16 pieces), and a good choice if solid jamfest climbs are occupied or if you're more mixed in your technique than just jam-jam-jam.

It's located 40 feet north (left) of Coyne's, faces west/northwest. Look for lower anchors than the other climbs in the area with a fingers flake opening to a left-facing #3 featured crack. The belay pad is a walkway along the buttress' base so be courteous.

I only rate it a 2-star because there are so many awesome cracks around it to climb. It's still very worthwhile and I thought an awesome climb.

Protection

Mix up medium to large cams; blue and yellow TCUs help low, and 4-5 #3-3.5 camalots higher, with a few other pieces in the spectrum. A #4 camalot works if you're light on 3s. Guidebooks vary in their suggestions of gear, but I was happier going heavy.